Garments Accessories | Garments Trimmings | Lining | Marker | Interlining | Garment Pattern | Fabric Spreading

Garments Trimmings:
Those accessories which are used in sewing section are called trimmings.

Garments Accessories:
Fabric is the basic material in garment manufacturing. Except fabric, the other materials are known as accessories. For shirt making there are some accessories are commonly used.

Garment accessories:

• Thread 
• Zipper 
• Interlining 
• Button for example: Snap button  Plastic button. Metal button.
• Label:  Main label  Size Label  Wash care label
• Motif:  Leather  Plastic batch Metal
• Pocketing fabric 
• Lining 
• Velcro 
• Elastic 
• Cord 
• Ribbon 
• Toggles 
• Rivet 
• Collar bone.

There are some finishing accessories: 

Finishing accessories:

• Hang tag 
• Price tag 
• Plastic/ poly bag 
• Tissue paper 
• Carton 
• Scotch tape 
• PP belt 
• Tag pin 
• Plastic clip 
• Stiker 
• Butterfly 
• Collar insert 
• Back board 
• Necks insert

Button:

In clothing and fashion design, a button is a small disc, typically round, object usually attached to an article of clothing in order to secure an opening, or for ornamentation. Functional buttons work by slipping the button through a fabric or thread loop, or by sliding the button through a reinforced slit called a buttonhole.

Buttons may be manufactured from an extremely wide range of materials, including natural materials such as antler, bone, horn, ivory, shell, vegetable ivory, and wood; or synthetics such as celluloid, glass, metal, bakelite and plastic.

Hard plastic is by far the most common material for newly manufactured buttons; the other materials tend to occur only in premium apparel.

Zipper:

A zipper or zip fastener) is a popular device for temporarily joining two edges of fabric. It is used in clothing (e.g. jackets and jeans), luggage and other bags, sporting goods, camping gear (e.g., tents and sleeping bags), and other daily use items.

Interlining:

Interlining is a layer of flannel fabric sewn in between the face fabric and the standard lining. Interlining provides insulation and also adds a luxurious weight and softness, improves the drape of the fabric, and protects fragile fabrics. It is a popular choice with silk draperies.Depending on the application, interlining materials can be woven, knitted, or created by fusing fibers together. Silk, wool, and artificial fibers with good insulating qualities are common choices for interlining.

Garment Pattern:

The individual par of a garment which is shaped by hard paper is called pattern.

Working Pattern:
The patterns set which is used for sample making are called Working Pattern.

Marker:
Marker is a large thin paper which contains shape of required pattern pieces or a particular style of garments.

Fabric Spreading:

Spreading means smooth lying out of fabrics as per marker length and width.

Fabric Cutting:
Cutting is the process by which we can cut fabrics as per marker dimension with the help of knife.

Bespoke Garments:
Bespoke Garments are made on the basis of individual clients and according to the individual’s size and requirement.

Ready to Wear Garments: 
Ready to wear garments is made on the basis of target common groups, according to size charts, derived from statistical analysis.

Lining:
Lining is one kind of trimmings which is used underside of garments and use in next to skin.

Style of Printing | Printing Style | Different Types of Printing Style | Direct Printing Style | Discharge Printing Style | Resist Printing Style

A process for producing a pattern on yarns, warp, fabric, or carpet by any of a largenumber of printing methods. The color or other treating material, usually in the form of a paste, is deposited onto the fabric which is then usually treated with steam, heat, or chemicals for fixation. 

There are three different printing 'styles' used to produce patterned effects on textiles, these being termed direct, discharge and resist. Each of these will be described in turn.

Direct Printing Style

This method involves the direct application of the colour design to the fabric and is the most common method of textile printing. The dyes used for direct printing are those which would normally be used for a conventional dyeing of the fabric type concerned.

Discharge Printing Style

In this method the fabric is pre-dyed to a solid shade by a traditional dyeing process and the colour is then destroyed locally, by chemicals incorporated in the print paste especially for that purpose. The result is a white patterned discharge on a coloured ground. In “white” discharge printing, the fabric is piece dyed, then printed with a paste containing a chemical that reduces the dye and hence removes the color where the white designs are desired. In “colored” discharge printing, a color is added to the discharge paste in order to replace the discharged color with another shade.

Resist Printing Style

In this method of printing the fabric is first printed with a substance called a 'resist' which will prevent the dye from being taken up in a subsequent dyeing process. The resist functions by either mechanically preventing the

dye from reaching local areas of the fabric or by chemically reacting with the dye or the fibre, to prevent adsorption. 

A printing method in which the design can be produced: (1) by applying a resistagent in the desired design, then dyeing the fabric, in which case, the design remains whitealthough the rest of the fabric is dyed; or (2) by including a resist agent and a dye in the pastewhich is applied for the design, in which case, the color of the design is not affected bysubsequent dyeing of the fabric background

Modern Dyeing Machinery and Equipment in Dyeing Process

Modern dyeing machines are made from stainless steels. Steels containing up to 4% molybdenum are favored to withstand the acid conditions that are common. 

A dyeing machine consists essentially of a vessel to contain the dye liquor, provided with equipment for heating, cooling and circulating the liquor into and around the goods to be dyed or moving the goods through the dye liquor. The kind of machine employed depends on the nature of the goods to be dyed. Labor and energy costs are high in relation to total dyeing costs: the dyers aim is to shorten dyeing times to save steam and electrical power and to avoid spoilage of goods. 

The conical-pan loose-stock machine is a widely used machine. Fibers are held in an inner truncated conical vessel while the hot dye liquor is mechanically pumped through. The fiber mass tends to become compressed in the upper narrow half of the cone, assisting efficient circulation. Leveling problems are less important as uniformity may be achieved by blending the dyed fibers prior to spinning. 

The Hussong machine is the traditional apparatus. It has a long, square-ended tank as a dye bath into which a framework of poles carrying hanks can be lowered. The dye liquor is circulated by an impeller and moves through a perforated false bottom that also houses the open steam pipe for heating. In modern machines, circulation is improved at the points of contact between hank and pole. This leads to better leveling and elimination of irregularities caused by uneven cooling. In package-dyeing machines dye color may be pumped in rather two directions: 

• Through the perforated central spindle and outward through the package or 
• By the reverse path into the outer layers of the package and out of the spindle. In either case levelness is important. 

Some package-dyeing machines are capable of working under pressure at temperatures up to 130C. 

The winch is the oldest piece of dyeing machine and takes its name from the slated roller that moves an endless rope of cloth or endless belt of cloth at full width through the dye liquor. Pressurized-winch machines have been developed in the U.S. 

In an entirely new concept, the Gaston County jet machine circulates fabric in rope form through a pipe by means of a high-pressure jet of dye color. The jet machine is increasingly important in high-temperature dyeing of synthetic fibers, especially polyester fabrics. Another machine is the jig. It has a V-shaped trough holding the dye color and guide rollers to carry the cloth at full width between two external, powered rollers, the cloth is wound onto each roller alternately, that is, the cloth is first moved forward, then backward through the dye color until dyeing is complete. Modern machines, automatically controlled and programmed, can be built to work under pressure.

Requirements To Import Textile Goods From Abroad | Terms of Import

This is an important subject and should be handled with extreme care and caution. It is advisable that before finalising the terms of Import Order, you should call for the samples or catalogue and other relevant literatures and the specification of the items to be imported.Once you are satisfied with the samples and the creditworthiness of the overseas supplier, you can proceed to finalise the term of the contract to be entered into. For this purpose, the Import Contract should be carefully and comprehensively drafted incorporating therein precise terms, all relevant conditions of the trade deal. There should not be any ambiguity regarding the exact specifications of the goods and terms of the purchase including import price, mode of payment, type of packaging, port of shipment, delivery schedule, etc.

Requirements To Import Textile Goods From Abroad 

• Product, Standards and specifications.
• Import Quantity
• Import Inspection
• Total Contract Value
• Terms of Delivery
• Import Taxe, Import Duty and Charges payable at Exporting Country and payable in India on importation.
• Period of Delivery/Shipment.
• Import Packing, Import Labelling and Import Marking.
• Terms of Payment-Amount, Import Mode & Currency.
• Import Discount and Import Commission
• Import License and Import Permit
• Import Insurance.
• Documentary Requirements.
• Import Guarantee. 
• Force Majeure or Excuse for Non-performance of Contract.
• Remedies
• Arbitration 

Properties Nylon Fabrics | Characteristics of Nylon Fabrics

Nylon is very much suitable for hosiery and the knitted fabrics because of its smoothness, light weight and high strength. Nylon is a lustrous fibre. The lustre of the fibre can be modified by adding the delustering agent at the molten stage.

Composition: The nylons are polyamides with recurring amide groups. They contain carbon, oxygen, nitrogen and hydrogen elements.

Strength: Nylon has good tenacity and the strength is not lost with age. Nylon has a high strength to weight ratio. It is one of the lightest textile fibres is at the same time also one of the strongest. It is one of the fibres which are added at the points of wear such as knees and seats of jeans and toes and heels of socks. The strength of the nylon fabric is lost when wet. Nylon has excellent abrasion resistance.

Elasticity: Nylon has good elasticity which makes it much suitable for the apparel purposes. The excellent elasticity would mean that the nylon materials return to their original length and shreds the wrinkles or creases. Nylon like other fibres has its own limit of elasticity. If stretched too much, it will not completely recover its shape. The high elongation and excellent elastic recovery of nylon contributes to the outstanding performance in hosiery. Nylon hosiery recovers to its original shape at knees and ankles instead of bagging.

Resilience: Nylon fabrics have excellent resilience. Nylon fabrics retain their smooth appearance and the wrinkles from the usual daily activities can be removed easily.

Drapability: Fabrics of nylon filament yarn have excellent draping qualities. The drape of the fabrics made from nylon can be varied depending on the yarn size. The light weight sheer fabrics of nylon night gowns have high-draping quality. The medium-weight dress fabrics can drape very nicely.

Heat Conductivity: The heat conductivity of the nylon fabrics vary depending upon the fabric construction, the type of nylon (staple/filament) used in the construction etc. For instance, the filament nylon used in the open construction would be cooler when compared to the same filament used in a closed construction. In a closed or tight construction the air circulation through the fabric is limited. The heat and moisture of the body will not readily pass the fabric construction, which makes the wearer feel very warm. Such fabrics are good for winter apparel, such as wind-breakers, but are not suitable for summer garments. On the other hand the fabrics with open construction permits the air circulation which makes the wearer feel cool.

Absorbency: Nylon fabrics have low absorbency. The low absorbency of the fabrics tends to be advantageous and also disadvantageous. The main advantage of the nylons low absorbency is that the water remains on the surface of the fabrics and runs off the smooth fabric and hence dries quickly. This property makes the nylon fabrics suitable for raincoats and shower curtains. Nylon’s low absorbency has a disadvantage in that the fabric feels clammy and uncomfortable in warm, humid weather.

Cleanliness and Washability: Nylon fabrics are easy care garments. Nylon fabrics are smooth, non-absorbent and dry quickly. Dirt doesn’t cling to this smooth fibre, which can be washed easily or can be even cleaned by using a damp cloth. Nylon whites are commonly referred as colour scavengers and should be washed separately to avoid greying. They easily pick up colour and dirt from the wash water. Nylons, washed with other fabrics pick up colour (even from the palest pastels) and develop a dingy grey appearance that is extremely difficult to remove. In addition to retaining their appearance during wear, garments made from nylon fabrics retain their appearance and shape after washing. Hot water should be avoided during washing as the hot water may cause wrinkling in some fabric constructions.

Effect of Bleaches: The nylon fabrics are white and generally do not require bleaching. The nylon fabrics which pick up colour or develop greying should be bleached with oxidising bleaches such as hydrogen peroxide.

Shrinkage: Nylon fabrics retain their shape and appearance after washing. It has good stability and does not shrink.

Effect of Heat: Nylon should always be ironed at low temperatures. Using hot iron will result in glazing and then melting of the fabric.

Effect of Light: Nylon fabrics have low resistance to sun light. They are not suitable for curtains or draperies as it is weakened by the exposure to sun light.

Resistance to Mildew: Nylon fabrics have absolute resistance to the development of mildew.

Resistance to Insects: Nylon is resistance to the moths and fungi.

Reaction to Alkalis: Nylon has excellent resistance to alkalis but the frequent and prolonged exposures to alkalis will weaken the nylon fabrics.

Reaction to Acids: Nylon is less resilient to the action of acids and is damaged by strong acids.

Affinity for Dyes: Nylon can be easily dyed with a wider range of dyes. The dyed fabrics retain their colour and have good resistance to fading.

Resistance to Perspiration: Nylon fabrics are resistant to perspiration.

What is Sizing | Types of sizing | Objects of Sizing | Properties of Size Ingredients | Disadvantages of Sizing

Size is a gelatinous film forming substance in solution or dispersion form, applied normally to warp yarns. It can sometimes be applied to weft yarns.Sizing is the process of applying the size material on yarn.A generic term for compounds that are applied to warp yarn to bind the fiber together and stiffen the yarn toprovide abrasion resistance during weaving. Starch, gelatin, oil, wax, and manufactured polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polystyrene, polyacrylic acid, and polyacetates are employed. 2. The process of applying sizing compounds. 3. The process of weighing sample lengths of yarn to determine the count.

Objects of Sizing 

1. To protect the yarn from abrasion 

2. To improve the breaking strength of the yarn

3. to increase smoothness of yarn

4. To increase yarn elasticity

5. To decrease hairiness

6. To decrease the generation of static electricity

Types of sizing 

Pure sizing: when the size pick up % is about 3 – 10 % it is called pure sizing.

Light sizing: when the size pick up % is about 11 -16% it is called light sizing.

Medium sizing: when the size pick up % is about 17 – 40 % it is called medium sizing.

Heavy sizing: when the size pick up % is above 40 % then it is called heavy sizing.

Disadvantages of Sizing 

• Cost of land and machine is high 
• Requires lot of labors 
• Requires utility like gas, electricity etc and their cost is high 
• Cost of ingredients 
• The process is long and it takes time 
• There is a risk of degradation of yarn 
• The yarn diameter is increased 
• Requires robust loom 
• It increases yarn stiffness 
• The fabric needs to be desized before use 
• Need knowledge and information about the size ingredients 
• There is a risk of pollution 
• Sizing changes the shade of colored yarn 
• 100% size material cannot be removed 
• Size material presence leads to uneven dying

Carding Machine | Objects of Carding Machine | Machine Parts of Carding Machine | Action in Carding Machine | Working principle of Carding Machine

Carding Machine

A process in the manufacture of spun yarns whereby the staple is opened, cleaned, aligned, and formed into a continuous, untwisted strand called a sliver.

Objects of Carding Machine

i. Opening to individual fibers.
ii. Elimination of impurities.
iii. Elimination of dust.
iv. Disentangling of naps.
v. Elimination of short fibers.
vi. Fiber blending.
vii. Fiber orientation.
viii. Sliver formation.

Machine Parts of Carding Machine :

i. Ducting pipe.
ii. Chute feed.
iii. Feed roller.
iv. Transport roller.
v. Brush roller.
vi. Flat.
vii. Fixed carding bars.
viii. Taker in.
ix. Grid bar.
x. Suction duct.
xi. Main cylinder.
xii. Doffer.
xiii. Stripping device.
xiv. Calendaring roller
xv. Coiler.
xvi. Can.

Action in Carding Machine :
The following actions take place in a carding machine.

i. Combing action.
ii. Carding action.
iii. Stripping action.
iv. Doffing action.

i. Combing action :
Combing action takes place feed roller & taken in. Here the pin directions of two surfaces are the same. Combing is the straightening & paralleling of fibers & the removal of short fibers & impurities by using a comb or combs which is assisted by roller & brushed.

ii. Carding action :
Carding action takes place between flat & cylinder.
In carding action,
i. Directions of wire in two surfaces are opposite.
ii. The moving directions of roller are also opposite.
iii. One roller is slower & other is faster.

So carding action is known as “Point against point” action.

iii. Stripping action :
Stripping action takes place between,
a) Taker in and Cylinder &
b) Doffer and stripper.
In stripping action,
i. Wire direction will be the same.
ii. Roller moving direction will be the same.
iii. One roller will be faster than another.
So stripping action is known as “Point back point” action.

iv. Doffing action :
This action takes place between cylinder & doffer. In this place fiber is transferred from cylinder to differ. Low speed doffer is called fiber form of high speed cylinder & makes a condensed web for formation of sliver.

Working principle of Carding Machine :

i. Supplying raw material by ducting pipe.
ii. Chute feed evenly compress a bat of 500-900 kfex.
iii. Transport roller forwards the material to feed plate.
iv. Feed arrangement consists of feed roller & feed plate.
v. Taker in opens the material to small flocks. When the material passes to main cylinder, mote knives, grid bars & carding segments eliminate a great part of impurities.
vi. Grid equipment.
vii. Suction dust to carry away the waste.
viii. Main cylinder & fixed carding segments designed to assist the carding operation.
ix. The main carding operation occurs between flats & cylinder. Flats compromise 80 to 116individual carding bars combined into a band moving on an endless path. 30 to 46 flats are always in action.
x. Cleaning unit cleans stripes fiber, naps & foreign matters from flats.
xi. Grid or cover plate.
xii. The doffer combines the fiber into a web. Because of it’s substantially lower speed relative to the cylinder.
xiii. Stripping device & doffing master draw the web from the doffers.
xiv. Calendar roller calendars the cotton & moves that toward.
xv. At last by can & coiler the fabric is produced.

Conclusion :
Carding is the process of arranging the fiber in parallel fusion. This is necessary for all staple fiber. Otherwise it would be impossible to produce fine yarn. Before the raw stock can be made into yarn, the remaining impurities must be removed. The fiber must be in different angle & they must be straight turned. The card is the hard of the spinning mill & well carded is half spun. Demonstrated the immersed significance of carding for the final of opening operation.